How to clean your computer
I have a dirty secret. I've
never cleaned my computer. Sure, I've dusted my
monitor, but I haven't taken off the cover or
tried to reach the crumbs lurking inside my
keyboard. And I honestly don't know the
difference between pressurized air dusters and
compressed air cleaners.

"Your computer could fry if you don't keep it
clean," says Jonathon Millman, chief technology
officer for Hooplah Interactive.
Whether it's a desktop or laptop/notebook
computer, dust and lint can clog the cooling
vents. This can cause your computer's brain—the
central processing unit (CPU)—to heat up. And
heat is the biggest cause of component failure
in computers. Regular cleaning could save you
costly maintenance fees down the road.
Follow the
five simple steps in the cleanup and
maintenance routine below to keep your computer
and accessories looking shiny and new. It's an
easy, do-it-yourself solution to help them run
smoothly and last longer.
Preparation
You'll need:
-
Standard
(flat-tip)
and/or Phillips
screwdriver
-
Can of
compressed air
(available from
computer dealers
or office-supply
stores)
-
Cotton swabs
(do not use a
cotton ball)
-
Rubbing
alcohol
-
Soft,
lint-free
cloths, paper
towels, or
anti-static
cloths
-
Water
-
Safety
glasses
(optional)
Important:
Always turn your computer off
and disconnect it from the power
source before you begin any of
these steps.
Step 1: Inside the case
If you see dust or other
debris accumulating around the
vents of your desktop or laptop,
you can bet there's more
inside—and it's only going to
cause trouble. To remove it,
you'll need to open the case.
That may sound more intimidating
than it really is. Before you
begin, of course, make
sure the computer is turned off
and disconnected from the power
source.
One more consideration:
Manufacturers' policies vary,
but, in some cases, opening your
computer case may void your
warranty. You may even encounter
a warning sticker on the case.
Review your warranty terms
before continuing.
-
For
desktop
computers.
Desktop computer
manufacturers
employ a variety
of fastening
mechanisms to
secure the case.
Face the back
panel: Modern
cases typically
use two or more
small knobs that
you can turn by
hand, or buttons
that you press
in, to release a
side panel or
the entire shell
of the case.
Others may
require you to
remove two or
more slotted or
Phillips screws.
If in doubt,
consult your
owner's manual
for specific
instructions.
-
For
laptop and
notebook
computers.
Set the computer
upside down on a
table or other
stable surface.
(You may want to
place a towel or
paper under the
computer to
prevent
scratches and
scuffs.) Remove
the battery. On
most laptops,
the vents on the
underside will
be grouped on a
removable panel,
secured to the
case with
several screws.
Typically, these
are very small
Phillips-type
screws, which
may be of
different
lengths. Remove
them, and be
sure to keep
track of which
goes where.
After you're inside either
your desktop or laptop, touch as
little as possible inside the
computer—keep your fingers away
from cards and cords. Look for
any dust bunnies or other bits
of fluff in the nooks and
crannies. Pick these out
carefully with tweezers or a
cotton swab. Blow compressed air
around all of the components and
along the bottom of the case,
keeping the nozzle at least four
inches away from the machine.
Blow air into the power supply
box and into the fan.
Try to aim the stream of
pressurized air in such a way
that it blows debris out of and
away from crevices and recesses,
rather than driving it deeper
in. Safety glasses are a good
idea, too, to keep the flying
dust out of your eyes.
Take particular care when
blowing the delicate fans.
Overspinning them with excessive
pressure can crack a blade or
damage the bearings. Position
the compressed air can well
away, and use short bursts of
air rather than a steady blast.
As a precaution, you might also
carefully immobilize the fan
blades with your fingertip or a
cotton swab while using the air
can.
Lastly, blow air into the
floppy disk, CD or DVD drives,
and I/O ports—but again, not too
aggressively. Wipe the inside of
the cover with a lightly
moistened cloth, and dry it
before replacing it.
Millman recommends doing this
every three months if your case
sits on the floor, if you have
pets that shed, or if you smoke.
Otherwise, every six to eight
months is fine.
Step 2: Outside the case
Run a cotton swab dipped in
rubbing alcohol around all of
the openings on the outside of
your case. Give them one swipe
with the damp end of the swab
and one swipe with the dry end.
Do this as often as you clean
the inside of your computer.
Step 3: Keyboard
Turn the keyboard upside down
and gently shake it. Most of the
crumbs and dust will fall out.
Take a can of compressed air and
blow into and around the keys.
Next, take a cotton swab and dip
it in rubbing alcohol. It should
be damp, but not dripping wet.
Run the cotton swab around the
outside of each key. Rub the
tops of the keys. Don't be
stingy with the swabs. Discard
them when they start to get
dirty, and switch to a fresh
one. If you have a laptop,
follow the same procedure but
take extra care with your
machine—treat it as gently as
you would a carton of fresh
eggs. If your laptop has a
touchpad, use the damp swap to
wipe it clean, as well. Do this
keyboard cleanup monthly.
It's tempting to use a vacuum
cleaner to suck the debris out
of the keyboard and other parts
of the computer, but technicians
warn that it can create a static
electrical charge that can
actually damage the computer's
sensitive electronics.
Worried about spills?
If a spill happens,
immediately turn off your
computer, disconnect the
keyboard, and flip it over.
While the keyboard is upside
down, blot the keys with a paper
towel, blow compressed air
between the keys, and leave it
to air dry overnight. Check to
ensure that all traces of
moisture have evaporated before
using the keyboard again. Laptop
spills need more attention
because liquid can easily
penetrate the keyboard and
damage internal parts. For
laptop spills, immediately turn
off the computer and remove any
external power source and other
items plugged into it. Turn the
laptop over, remove the battery,
and then bring it to your
nearest repair center to check
for internal damage. Simply
blowing compressed air into the
keyboard and letting your
computer air dry upside down
overnight aren't enough, because
liquids can sit inside a laptop
for days.
For all spills, be aware that
anything other than plain water
may cause severe damage, and
never attempt to dry a keyboard
or laptop in a microwave or
conventional oven.
Step 4: Mouse
Disconnect the mouse from
your computer. Rub the top and
bottom of your mouse with a
paper towel dipped in rubbing
alcohol. Scrape hard-to-remove
grime with your fingernail. If
you have an optical mouse,
ensure that no lint or other
debris obscures the
light-emitting lens on the
underside of the mouse.
If you use a mechanical
mouse, open the underside of the
mouse and remove the ball. (In
most cases, you simply need to
rotate the plastic ring
encircling the ball one-quarter
turn counterclockwise.) Wash the
ball with water, and let it air
dry. To clean inside a
mechanical mouse, dip a cotton
swab in rubbing alcohol and rub
all of the interior components,
paying particular attention to
the little rollers, where gunk
tends to collect. Finally, blow
compressed air into the opening
and ensure that the interior is
dry. Replace the ball and the
cover.
Clean your mouse monthly.
Step 5: Monitor
For liquid-crystal display
(LCD) laptop and flat-panel
monitor screens, slightly
moisten a soft, lint-free cloth
with plain water. Microfiber
cloths are excellent for this
purpose. Avoid using paper
towels, which can scratch
monitor surfaces. Don't spray
liquid directly onto the
screen—spray the cloth instead.
Wipe the screen gently to remove
dust and fingerprints. You can
also buy monitor cleaning
products at computer-supply
stores.
For glass CRT
(television-style) monitors, use
an ordinary household glass
cleaning solution. Unless your
manufacturer recommends
differently, don't use alcohol
or ammonia-based cleaners on
your monitor, as these can
damage anti-glare coatings. And
never try to open the housing of
a CRT monitor. Capacitors within
can hold a dangerous electrical
charge—even after the monitor
has been unplugged.
Clean the monitor weekly.
Finally, make sure that
everything is dry before you
plug your computer back in.
Article adapted from an original article
written by Alyson Munroe.